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Notes from the road

I write after every trip — about the places, the people and the food worth trying.

  • Notes from the road

    Five places in Rome without tourists

    After nine trips to Rome I have my own list: an orange garden, a market without souvenirs and a trattoria in Testaccio.

  • Tips

    What to pack for a weekend in the Balkan

    My packing list, tested over twenty weekends: from the shoes to a small torch.

  • Notes from the road

    Granny Pena and the banitsa baked in embers

    How a woman from Zheravna taught our whole group to roll pastry — and why we go back to her every season.

  • Tips

    Travelling alone — but not lonely

    Almost half of my groups travel alone. Here is how I make sure nobody is left out.

  • Notes from the road

    The Danube Delta at sunrise

    We got up at 4:30 to see the pelicans. Nobody regretted it.

  • Tips

    How I choose a guest house

    Five rules for deciding where the group will sleep — and why I never book from photos.