Five places in Rome without tourists
After nine trips to Rome I have my own list: an orange garden, a market without souvenirs and a trattoria in Testaccio.
Rome is full of people, but there are corners where all you hear is a fountain. The first is the Orange Garden on the Aventine — go at sunset and look through the keyhole of the gate next door.
The second is the Testaccio market, where Romans buy cheese, not magnets. The third is the Basilica of San Clemente, with two more churches stacked beneath it. The fourth is the Coppedè quarter with its fairy-tale façades, and the fifth is the Da Remo trattoria, where you queue with the locals.
All five are in the programme of our next trip.
